Between Montreal and Toronto (where Marty has a conference this week), we decided to explore the Montebello region, an area to the north of the Ottawa River that is the country of the voyageurs. For two centuries after its initial exploration by Champlain in 1615, fur traders and missionaries traveled west from Quebec along this river to tap the indigenous wealth of the northlands, pelts and souls. Then came loggers and sportsmen. The hotel where we stayed is a legacy of this rich history. The Fairmont Montebello, originally a hunting and fishing preserve, is said to be the largest log hotel in the world. This is an impressive claim given the size of the old national park lodges in places such as Yellowstone. In any case, the place was full of families with kids, enjoying the Canadian Thanksgiving weekend in the woods, in “rustic elegance.”