One of the advantages of No ETA travel is that it leaves room for serendipity. One morning we set out from Quebec City and headed west with no particular destination in mind. A sign soon appeared for Chemin du Roy (The King's Road), which as it turns out, is the oldest roadway in Canada. From 1737, it linked New France's three largest cities: Montréal, Trois-Rivières, and Québec City along the St. Lawrence. It was originally built 21 feet wide and pretty much has stayed that way. So like following a long driveway, we wound through fields, towns, housing developments, and shrines about half of its 160 kms. Meanwhile we would glimpse from time to time the divided highway that runs the same route, but without the history, and the turns. We felt very smug.

In Trois-Rivières we made the decision to head north to La Mauricie in the hope of finding a romantic cabin within the national park. At park headquarters they told us that no such accommodations are available off-season. It was camp or go elsewhere. And so it goes with us; each day develops its own themes as we try to take advantage of opportunities that crop up. Fortunately we had our tent and the weather held.