Prince Edward Island, the third of the Maritime Provinces that we will visit on this trip, looks a lot like Ireland with trees. The same gently rolling green fields with distinct borders. The same predominance of dairy farming. The same rapidly changing weather as clouds move in from the Gulf of St. Lawrence and then pass over just as quickly. And similar long views of undeveloped coastline. An example of the weather – this morning the sky was very gray and threatening, with a sharp northern wind. So we packed the tent fairly quickly and got all the gear stowed in the car. Within 30 minutes it was raining. An hour later, blue sky: a definite Irish progression.

The island’s history is similar to the rest of the area. Initially temporary settlements were established by French fishermen in the 16th century and then, as part of New France, waves of Acadians came to farm. The English rousted many of these at the end of the Seven Years War, but unlike, say, New Brunswick, there were havens on the island and the Acadians never really left. So despite two name changes, first as St. John in place of Île Saint-Jean and then as Prince Edward Island, and massive waves of Loyalist and Scottish settlers, more French seems to be spoken here than elsewhere in the Maritimes.

Bob was last here 30 years ago. Since then the ferry from New Brunswick has been replaced by a spectacular bridge. The bridge has brought more tourists, especially more bus groups, and has made it much easier for trucks to supply the island. And so there are many more tourist attractions. Sears and Walmart are here. And Starbucks has opened in Charlottetown and will soon have a store in Summerside (the other city). Alas.