Nova Scotia was settled along its coasts, with little in the middle. Makes sense. The sea was a source of supplies and of income, especially in the days of the cod fishery. Our first stop on the Atlantic coast was Lunenburg, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. (We missed the sign for Joggins fossil cliffs, the other World Heritage Site. Oh well, maybe on the way back.)

Lunenburg was recognized for its well-preserved 18th Century buildings, built mostly by German immigrants, in the same wave that brought the Pennsylvania Dutch to the mid-Atlantic States. The beautiful harbor has a rich shipbuilding and fishing heritage. We especially liked the church architecture and the Aquarium and Maritime Museum, which has many hands-on exhibits. We toured two fishing vessels and talked extensively with a retired captain who had many stories. We have now seen large specimens of both sturgeon and cod and extensive material on sperm whaling --- three reasons the Atlantic coast was settled in the first place and now rare in these waters.